Rubin's Reuben from Eleven City Diner

Item Purchased: Rubin's Reuben from Eleven City Diner
Location Purchased: Eleven City Diner / 1112 S. Wabash / Chicago, IL
Price: $8.95 + tax

Review: In the sandwich world, having bread on top of the meat is akin to the glass ceiling at your crappy job. That's why open face, when available, is the way to go. At Eleven, open face is the only option on this corned beef sandwich named after the owner himself. When you order a Reuben from Rubin, there is no place to go but up.

Up it does go. So far up it goes that I couldn't even see the two thick slices of dark rye struggling to hold everything up. All I could see were globs of melted Swiss, chunks of sauerkraut and hand-sliced strips of tender corned beef.

Did I mention the corned beef was hand-sliced? If bread atop a sandwich is a glass ceiling, then an automatic meat slicer is an inter-office memo you've just found in your in-box for the fifth time in one day. I don't think Eleven has an automatic meat slicer. (They do have a meat slicer... my mistake... Plenty of meat is still handsliced, but with the crowds this place sees, there is no way they can keep up completely with the demand). What they have are diligent delicatessen professionals in the kitchen, sharpening their knives, laying in wait for someone like me to order a reuben. After shoveling my way through the Vesuvius of salted deli meat and golden ratio of thousand island dressing, I eventually reached the dark rye bottom. Oh dark rye! How I love thee. Why do so many others forsake you in favor of your lighter brother? At this point, my stomach was about to burst from its intake, but my tongue had detached itself from the rest of my bodily functions and demanded more flavor be placed upon it. I had no choice but to concede.

Served with a crisp pickle spear, this sandwich is more than enough for one and could be a small meal for two. One thing that Eleven doesn't do is skimp. The side of fries that come with are nothing to write home about, but sides are nothing more than an afterthought when you have a sandwich this good in front of you.

Breakfast and dinner at the same diner in one day? If Eleven City Diner ever goes public, I better have first dibs at the customer stock options. If you think my recurring visits to this great new restaurant are bizarre, just remember that the owner, who was there when I ate breakfast in the morning, was still pacing the floor, making sure everything was running smoothly. It is obvious that Brad Rubin has made the Eleven City Diner his life and is trying equally hard to make it a part of yours.

Note (04/13/06): Fries were crispier this time and it came with a side of cole slaw (which I wish were bigger despite the full feeling I had after eating this massive sandwich). I enjoy being able to watch the evolution of this new restaurant. Looks like its footing is sticking more and more each day.

Rating: 4.25 / 5